The main characteristic of sensitive skin is the hyperreactivity to environmental factors (temperature, humidity, UV rays, pollution) and the daily use of products (drugs, soaps, creams, clothes..).
One of the reasons of sensitive skin is the thinning of the horny layer, the first skin barrier against external agents. The skin becomes more vulnerable and shows irritation signs and reddening which can determine rosacea and it is also characterized by a burning sensation and itchiness. So, the skin needs to be desensitized and protected. SKIN SAVE® is a key ingredient for formulations aimed at reducing skin sensitivity, improving skin physiological defenses and promoting skin barrier recovery.
Skin-aging is a very complex and multifactorial process characterized by functional and esthetic changes. It is possible to distinguish a chronological or intrinsic aging, genetically determined, and an extrinsic aging caused by environmental agents, mainly solar exposure (photo-aging). According to the definition, the effects of photo-aging are visible in specific areas that are commonly exposed to solar irradiation.
Solar UV rays stimulate the production of free radicals, which are the main enemies of the skin. They are responsible for oxidative stress and the activation of inflammatory pathways. In particular, the reactive oxygen species (ROS) stimulate the transcription factor kB (NF-kB), that increases the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines. The cytokines, stimulate the matrix metalloproteinase to breakdown collagen and elastin. The most visible signs of these biochemical events are: deep wrinkles, hyperchromia, telangiectasia and very dry or rough skin.
BIONAP offers several ingredients to counteract skin-aging on several fronts:
- OLEA HT-10 is the ideal ingredient to counteract skin photo-aging. The hydroxytyrosol, throught its antioxidant action is able to inhibit the activation of NF-kB and, consequently, the related inflammatory events.
- CARDO OIL is another effective ingredient for specific formulations aimed to counteract photo-aging. In fact, phytosterols reduce the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase involved in the collagen degradation, after UV irradiation, and to increase a new synthesis of collagen. Moreover, phytosterols and linoleic acid allow the recovery of the skin barrier, reducing the transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- OPUNTIA BIOCOMPLEX SH deeply moisturizes the skin and stimulates the skin wound healing processes.
- RENEGRAPE®, its alpha hydroxyl acids pool is able to stimulate cellular turnover, that decreases during age, and counteracts hyperkeratosis. The skin becomes lighter and responds better to the cosmetic treatments.
A basic condition for a healthy skin is a good degree of hydration. Epidermis, and particularly horny layer, plays a key role in the hydration process because acts as a barrier which maintains the physiological value.
Components of this barrier are the corneocytes, intercorneocyte lipids and hydrolipidic film, a protective layer which covers the surface of our skin and has hydrating properties for both the presence of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which acts as a physiological humectants, and for the liposoluble portion, made up of sebum, which regulates the transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
The hydration strategy acts on the maintenance of barrier function to guarantee the right amount of water among the cells.
OPUNTIA BIOCOPLEX SH is a herbal extract obtained from prickly pears cladodes (Opuntia ficus indica L.) characterized by a high amount of polysaccharides (30-40%). Like hyaluronic acid, it is a strong hydrated agent through gelification. In fact, it is able to hydrate with a filmogen mechanism not occlusive, typical of the molecules called structurants, which are highly hydrophilic, able to coordinate a large amount of water.
It can be efficiently used in formulations like daily moisturizing cream and for specific moisture treatment (dry skin a/o “aged skin”).
The epidermis is the most external layer of the skin and it is subject to chemical or mechanical insults that could cause structural changes. Erythema, burns, minor injuries and irritations caused by the contact with chemical agents, could induce the maceration and abrasion of the skin. It is necessary to act with agents that promote the reparing and regeneration of the skin. OPUNTIA BIOCOMPLEX SH, thanks to the bioadhesive properties of its polysaccharides, is able to exert a repair action similar to the hyaluronic acid’s one. In fact, it promotes the ri-epithelialization, that is the migration of keratinocytes from the edge of the wound to the center. The skin becomes compact and restores its barrier function in a short time.
Homogeneous skin is one of the most visible signs of healthy skin. Excessive solar exposure, the use of some drugs and hormonal diseases could cause skin spots. They can be more or less visible and thicker in different areas of the body. These spots (hyperchromia) are caused by an excessive production of melanin, a pigment that determines the color of the skin. The melanin synthesis process (melanogenesis) occurs inside the melanocites that are in the basal layer of the epidermis. The limiting step of this biochemical process is the conversion of L-tyrosine in L-DOPA through tyrosinase enzyme. The tyrosinase is a key target of products having whitening action. Moreover, because of melanogenesis is induced by the pro-oxidant action of UV-rays, molecules having antioxidant action are efficient skin whitening ingredients. The antioxidant action makes SKIN MOON® a safe ingredient to treat hyperchromia. The polyphenols contained in SKIN MOON® are able to reduce radical species and inhibit tyrosinase enzyme, protecting the skin from UV-rays. Safety is the uniqueness of SKIN MOON®: it has no photosensitizing effects typical of the most common molecules having whitening action.
During the years, the physiological skin renewal is undergoing a decrease. The horny layer is becoming thicker and the skin appears to be less bright. Exfoliation is a process that removes dead cells from the most superficial layer of the skin. The exfoliant agents decrease the cohesion among keratinocytes and determine the loss of external skin layer (keratolytic action). Exfoliation promotes the production of new cells, stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibers. It facilitates the absorption of active compounds through the skin. The skin appears lighter and smoother. RENEGRAPE® is the ideal ingredient to promote skin renewal. It can be used for the treatment of skin thickness and to counteract skin spots and superficial wrinkles, giving the skin a brighter and more uniform aspect. It can represent an effective support for the pharmacological treatment of acne or for the reduction of scars.
Acne is a chronic-inflammatory disorder regarding hair follicle and sebaceous glands characterized by an overproduction of sebum on the skin. Acne development is usually associated to four main factors:
- Infundibular hyperkeratosis
- Hyperplasia of sebaceous glands and hyperseborrhea
- Colonization of hair follicles by Propionibacterium Acnes
- Immune and inflammatory response
The inflammatory response is considered one of the main factor and it affects for about 78% of suffering subjects. Pharmacological treatments are often long-lasting, leading to a reduced compliance. Cosmetic product can contribute not only to increase patient’s compliance, but let to prevent the onset of this condition. SKIN SAVE® is the ideal ingredient for supportive treatment of skin inflammatory conditions like acne. The lenitive effect of olive biophenols, the re-epitelialization property of Opuntia polysaccharides and the desensitizing action of caper flavonoids, make SKIN SAVE® a highly effective ingredient for formulations aimed at skin affected by inflammation disorders.
Seborrheic dermatitis is an inflammatory condition with a chronic-recurrent trend that regards skin areas with a high content of sebaceous glands such as scalp, ear canal, face or chest. The etiologic causes of this skin disease are unknown yet but several predisposing factors are identified:
- Genetic factors
- Environmental factors
- Immune disorders
The seborrheic dermatitis symptomatology is characterized by intense itching. Topic treatments are based on application of corticosteroids, antimycotic agents, shampoo with pyrithione zinc, selenium sulfide and octopirox® and other compounds with an anti-inflammatory action. SKIN SAVE® is an effective ingredient for the supportive treatment of seborrheic dermatitis and related disease. In addition, NIGELLA OIL can be topically applied in skin affected by this inflammatory condition thanks to the beneficial effects of thymoquinone and phytosterols contained in this oil.
Atopic dermatitis is a chronic-inflammatory skin condition characterized by hyper-reactivity to several environmental factors and a symtomatology extremely itching. Skin affected by atopic dermatitis appears dry, with scaly appearance caused by the alteration of stratum corneum lipids which leads to the dysfunction of the skin barrier and, consequently, skin permeation. The pharmacologic therapy can act only against atopic dermatitis symptoms and it is based on the use of anti-histaminic drugs for the intense itching and ciclosporin for its immunomodulant and anti-inflammatory effects. So, in common practice, topical supportive products with lenitive effects are strongly recommended in the management of this skin disease. The lenitive and soothing effects of olive biophenols together with desensitizing properties of caper flavonoids and the repairing action of Opuntia polysaccharides, make SKIN SAVE® the ideal support to the treatment of this skin condition. In addition, CARDO OIL and NIGELLA OIL are good supportive ingredients thanks to the high content of phytosterols and linoleic acid, both involved in the skin barrier recovery processes.
Contact or allergic dermatitis is a skin reaction induced by the contact with a sensitizing substance (allergens) for the skin. Unlike allergies, contact dermatitis processes do not involve antibodies but lymphoid and dentritic cells. Several common substances contained in daily using products can become allergens for the skin of our body, such as nickel, chromium, paraphenylendiamine (hair dye) and many others. Characteristic symptoms are redness, swelling and itchy. Sometimes the excessive scratch can facilitate the development of skin infections. Since the first contact, the sensitization arises after 7-15 days, meanwhile after a latter contact with the same allergens, symptoms appear in 24-48 hours. One of the most effective strategies, but not ever applicable, is avoid the contact with the allergen itself. Local pharmacologic treatments are based on the application of creams containing cortisone or retinoids, not free of side effects. SKIN SAVE® is an effective ingredient aimed at supportive treatments of contact dermatitis. Caper flavonoids, particularly, can give strong relief thanks to the desensitizing effect.
It is an autoimmune and inflammatory disease. It regards skin, cutaneous annexes (especially nails) and joints. Among the trigger factors, there are the physical and chemical ones as well as stress, alcohol abuse, drugs, infections, smoke. A skin affected by psoriasis is characterized by intense desquamation, quickened cellular turnover (7 days vs 30 days of healthy skin) and blood vessels dilation. These symptoms can provoke a remarkable phychological stress in those people affected. Cosmetic products can give an important support to the pharmacologic treatment of psoriasis, because improve skin appearance, reducing the bothersome desquamation, give relief thanks to the lenitive effect, help to normalize and protect epidermis. All these effects, as consequence, can significantly contribute in improving quality of life of subjects affected by psoriasis. The extract SKIN SAVE® is useful in formulations designed as supportive treatment of psoriasis thanks to the re-epithelialization, lenitive and protective actions. Also NIGELLA OIL is a good supportive ingredient, in fact it is used since very old time for psoriasis.
Not only the face, but the body also needs a periodic exfoliation. During the years, cellular turnover is starting to slow down, the epidermis becomes thicker and the skin appears to be drier and less bright. Exfoliation is able to reduce the cohesion among keratinocytes leading to their elimination. Thanks to this mechanism, the skin appears to be lighter and smoother. Moreover, exfoliation promotes the synthesis of new cells, stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibers and enhances dermis circulation, increasing the adsorption of active ingredients through the skin.
RENEGRAPE® is the ideal ingredient to promote a safe cellular turnover. It can be successfully used to reduce hyperkeratosis and skin imperfections such as scars, spots and photoaging damages.
Recognized by time as a disease, cellulite, scientifically known as pannicolopatia-edematous-fibro-sclerotic, is an inflammatory condition with alterations of connective tissue. The responsible factors are different , including genetic causes (individual predisposition) and hormonal deficits, bad nutritional choices, sedentary lifestyle, drugs which cause water-retention. The cosmetic treatment is aimed at reduce the imperfections related to the cellulite. The main cosmetic active principles work on the adipose tissue (lipolytic action), on the inflammatory process and on the circulation.
BIONAP proposes FLAVOSLIM as natural ingredient for formulations aimed at the treatment of imperfections caused by cellulite with small or more serious entity. Bergamot flavonoids, the active compounds, work not only on lipolysis and inflammation processes, but also on the differentiation of the adipocytes.
Thanks to these actions, FLAVOSLIM can be an effective help in the treatment of the different stages of cellulite:
- Edematous phase
- Fibrous phase
- Sclerotic phase
During the edematous stage, the earliest, FLAVOSLIM acts on the inflammatory processes caused by venous and lymphatic circulation deficiency, mainly in legs.
The slowing of venous circulation and the lacking of the re-absorption of lymphatic liquid are causes of oedema (water retention). Lymphatic fluids compress the surrounding tissues, leading to structural changes macroscopically visible as orange peel skin. Moreover, fluids stagnation provokes an accumulation of catabolites which trigger inflammation.
During the fibrous stage there is an increase of reticular fibers and of the volume of adipocytes. Small nodules appear and become increasingly more painful and rigid. The lipolytic action of FLAVOSLIM allows to act also in this stage, preventing the onset of the sclerotic one.
A firm skin derives from the combination of two main factors: a good muscle structure and skin elasticity. Natural skin firmness decreases when collagen and elastic fibers are less produced or lose their functionality. Signs of this condition are skin laxity and unpleasant striae, commonly known as stretchmarks. To prevent the onset of these imperfections, there are two strategies, direct and indirect. The first one is skin hydration. A hydrated skin is soft and firm and promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin. The indirect strategy consists in stimulate the production of dermis fibers. Ingredients, that are able to work in both directions, are essential for an effective and synergetic result.
OPUNTIA BIOCOMPLEX SH works on the direct mechanism: it gives a good degree of skin hydration and makes it prone to receive other cosmetic treatments.
CARDO OIL acts on the indirect strategy: phytosterols contained in the oil are able to, not only counteract matrix metalloproteinase, which are involved in the breakdown of dermis fibers, but also to stimulate the synthesis of these fibers.
Moreover, CARDO OIL contains a high amount of linoleic acid which acts on the skin barrier recovery, promoting skin firmness. The synergetic use of these ingredients enhances skin elasticity and appearance. They are both useful to prevent and counteract skin laxity and the onset of stretchmarks.