From caper buds (Capparis spinosa), orange juice (Citrus sinensis), olive leaves (Olea europaea) and rice grains (Oriza sativa), BIONAP has developed SKIN MOON®, a new combination of extracts with a high skin-whitening activity.
WHAT IT DOES
SKIN MOON® is able to inhibit skin melanogenesis, showing an activity similar to hydroquinone and higher than kojic acid and arbutin, which are ingredients currently used in skin-whitening products. Results are visible after only four weeks of topical application (60% average inhibition of skin melanogenesis). Moreover, SKIN MOON® is well tolerated by skin and does not cause skin sensitivity, unlike other agents commonly used in skin depigmentation (1).
HOW TO USE
SKIN MOON® is used in formulations aimed at skin depigmentation. In contrast with other agents (hydroquinone, kojic acid and arbutin), SKIN MOON® can be applied during sun exposure because it has not a cutaneous photosensibilizing effect.
Recommended usage concentration: 2-3% (w/w) in 3.5-6 pH range
SKIN WHITENING: SCIENTIFIC INVESTIGATIONS ON SKIN MOON® EFFECT
SKIN MOON® and its extracts effects on skin were evaluated by different in vitro and in vivo experiments (2-6). Results obtained by in vitro model showed that at different concentrations SKIN MOON® is able to induce higher inhibition of tyrosinase activity than kojic acid (Fig.1).
Fig.1 Inhibition of tyrosinase activity percentage by in vitro model.
Moreover, a clinical trial (1) carried out by an objective instrumental technique (reflectance spectrophotometry), evaluated in vivo skin melanogenesis inhibition of SKIN MOON® topical application in comparison with other whitening agents (hydroquinone, kojic acid and arbutin). In this study, SKIN MOON® showed a significant percentage of melanogenesis inhibition (Fig.2), without cutaneous photosensitizing effects (1).
Fig. 2 Percentage of melanogenisis inhibition on human volunteers.
1. Rizza L, et al., Skin-whitening effects of Mediterranean herbal extracts by in vitro and in vivo models. J Cosmet Sci 63 (5): 311 - 320 (2012).
2. Bonina F, et al., Skin whitening: valutazione in vitro e in vivo dell’effetto. Kosmetica n°3 April (2007).
3. Bonina F, et al., In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of a lyophilised extract of Capparis spinosa L. buds. J Cosmet Sci 53: 321-335 (2002).
4. Panico AM, et al., Protective effect of Capparis spinosa on chondrocytes. Life Sci 77: 2479-2488 (2005).
5. Bonina F, et al., Biofenoli dell’ulivo: attività antiradicalica e fotoprotettiva in vivo dell’oleuropeina e dell’idrossitirosolo. Cosmetic Technology 2: 18-22 (1999).
6. Saija A, et al., In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo photoprotective effect of a red orange extract. Int J Cosmet Sci 20: 331-342 (1998).